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John Vernon's conceptual magic!
29-May-00 Frame Preparation Part 2

Let the Games Begin!



ImageThe frame is really pretty straight and will need very little prep work to get it ready. The rails come very straight right from TCI but we welded the fender and running board holes shut so there will be a little work to do in that area as well as the front and rear frame horns.

It's nice to have auto parts store nearby when you're working to project like this. I'm lucky enough to have one just four blocks away, but get this, they are building a new 22,000 square foot store directly across the street from my house! Street rodding just doesn't get any better than this!

Oh yeah, back to point. I ran down to the auto parts store and picked up a new 6-in. metal scraper. This should work well along the sides. I already had a can of body filler and some plastic scrapers.
ImageOne of the advantages to renting a body shop stall is not only the use of the paint booth but also the presence of an endless supply of compressed air. Pictured here from left right we have a DA sander, a roll of Jessup skateboard grip tape, a hand-held block sander, and an orbital sander. Owning a bicycle shop also has a few advantages like the access to huge rolls of 80 grit adhesive backed sand paper - referred to in the industry as skateboard grip tape. This roll is almost half gone.
ImageThe frame was placed on sawhorses, tunes were cranked up in the CD player, the air compressor was fired up, and it was time to rock! This was the time to go over the entire frame and check it before applying the filler. I used an angle grinder and sander on anything I found that wasn't up to par. Once everything checked out it was time to wipe the frame down with metal prep (to make sure it's clean and oil free) and get ready to apply the filler.
ImageI'm not sure if this is the right way to do it but when I mix body filler I usually put a two or three inch blob of filler on a piece of cardboard and lay a single line of cream hardener through the middle. I don't think I mix it exactly the same way every time, even though I try. I'm sure there are times when I have too much hardener in the mix. Too much hardener in the filler can cause something called "bleaching" where the paint on your car starts yellowing. Hardener contains peroxide and if the mix is too strong can cause this to happen. The only way I know of to avoid this problem is to prime the area with a good epoxy primer. I plan to use PPG - DP90 as a primer and apply several coats. This primer will cover most of the slight grinding scratches in the frame also.
ImageThe filler knifed on very well and as expected very little filler was needed. Some people put bolts in the holes but I chose not to. Instead, I let the putty start to set up and then took a bicycle spoke and gently chipped the excess putty away. After the frame is finished I will run tap through the holes just to clean the threads.
ImageAnother nice shot of Joey's welding. You can see that body filler is not necessary in many areas.